Although enormously popular, the products obtained did not possess the olfactory power of our modern perfumes. This art, which still struggled to infiltrate the secular world, would disappear at the end of the Bronze Age, around BC. It was not until the archaic period sixth century BC that fragrances were popularised. They were then contained in simple containers, aryballos or alabasters. Thus scent occupied a prominent position at the crossroads of the sacred, therapeutic, cosmetic and culinary, which it would maintain throughout the middle ages, regardless of the civilisation in question.
In Grasse, raw materials were widely used in the emerging perfumery industry. Although natural and raw fragrances from spices, flowers, mineral or vegetable resins were used, scented oils or waters obtained by decantation, maceration or filtration were also employed. The question of perfume remains closely linked to the development of distillation techniques, which were popularised with the spread of the still and alchemy, with the translation of Arabic treaties by doctors from the School of Salerno in the twelfth century, and then by the dissemination of distillation techniques to Andalusia in the thirteenth century.
Alcohol was invented in Salerno in the twelfth century and had a strictly medical use until the fifteenth century.
Its use in the manufacture of perfumes spread in the sixteenth century. The French Revolution ruined perfumers but did not suppress the taste for perfumery. After the Terror, people wore perfume more than ever. The industrial sector experienced a fundamental change; this was also the great intellectual and social period for Grasse.
High taxes caused the rapid regression of tannery in favour of perfumery which developed through improved technical processes. As well as scented pastes, there were now powders, soaps, tobacco etc.
Pleasure, the watchword of the period, also produced a proliferation of boxes and gewgaws, related to the development of new materials while other civilisations still employed perfume burners This material is odorless and easy to shape, so glasses could be made in different shapes and colors and perfect to contain the first cosmetics and scented oils.
Perfume continues to play a key role also in the Oriental culture, thanks to the reciprocal influences between Western acquisitions and Arab scientific knowledge. In particular, amongst the Arabs it is common to use fragrances for personal use, to accompany purification rituals or as an air freshener. Arabs are also the inventors of the alembic and responsible for the diffusion throughout Europe of the ancient art of distillation. From this special and scent land many essential oils come from.
The most common oil was rose water, used to perfume the house and to purify people in religious places and to prepare food and drink.
Chemistry and alchemy discoveries allowed Arabs to export valuable raw materials around the world and thus control fragrance and perfume trade for many centuries.
The history of perfume involves also the Far East. From these lands, which were for a long time unknown to the western civilizations and provided with an exotic and mysterious charm, derive aromas, spices, silk and other precious goods. In Chinese culture, those who emanated a good aroma were appreciate, so it was common use to apply pleasing perfumes such as patchouli and the so-called "Chinese Violet" or corded Telosma, which had an intense and very relaxing aroma.
In Japan the most popular scents were camellia, cherry blossoms and incense, also used in the West culture to accompany the sacred rituals. Around these aromas, Japanese culture developed elaborate rituals and traditions such as tea ceremonies and incense or Koh-do.
Meanwhile in the West, after the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century A. Thanks to the intense trade with the East, the history of perfume continues throughout the dark ages at the beginning of the Middle Ages. As a consequence of the Crusades, the trade of perfumes thrive again from the East to the West, and the commerce of precious goods in Europe mainly passes from Venice. Flowers, aromatic plants and essential oils were used to scent both water for the bath and the water to wash hands before a meal.
Especially in the dining rooms there was a water basins with rose or violet petals, and sage, chamomile or rosemary were also used for infusion. Upper class ladies used to wear lavender and violet essences or hid fragrant bags under their robes.
Another very popular device was the pomander, a small metallic container hung to the neck which spread natural aromas such as nutmeg and lavender. These were very common objects for any social classes at that time. They were used mainly to try to hide a bad hygiene and also because they had the supposed power to keep away the plague that came to Europe in the 14th century. For the same therapeutic purpose,. The invention of distillation allowed to replace the oil with alchol as a perfume carrier.
The products of this new alcoholic perfume era were mostly rose or orange scented waters. Perfumery art experienced a huge progress in the Renaissance thanks to increased knowledge in the chemical field and the improvement of distillation techniques.
Essences and aromatized waters were used as a cure for some diseases, but their main purpose was to perfume the body, environments and also leather accessories such as gloves and belts. The discovery of the New World and the India Way brought to Europe vanilla, cocoa, cinnamon and ginger.
These precious commodities, in addition to the ones already available in the Mediterranean area, were used by Spanish and Italian perfumers, who soon began to move to France as well.
In particular, Italian perfumers spread to France thpersonal fragrances trend. In Venice, in the meantime, a thriving trade of precious spices and aromas had developed, which soon made Italy the leading destination for luxury perfume. After moving to Cologne, he began to produce and trade this renowned perfume based on over 20 different.
After a few this product began to spread to France and throughout Europe as "Eau de Cologne" and was used as a tonic and perfume. During in France the production of perfumed leather accessories such as footwear, gloves and belts is a growing business.
Thank you. Invalid Email. All fields are required. Photo Courtesy of Bulgari Smelling a fragrance can evoke memories and feelings, and a beautiful scent can never fail to make us feel happy or nostalgic. Mirella Haddad.
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